Showing posts with label faberdashery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label faberdashery. Show all posts

Wednesday, 20 December 2017

Christmas Advent 3D Printing #Day 19 Advice printing with support materials

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Day 19

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's time for Day #19

Day 19 gift is designed by Gerhardt Breedt -  It's a totally awesome little Jeep, with a lot of detail.


Great little Jeep - printed in Faberdashery Greenery Green (It's Army-Man-Green really)

Because this model is a little more complex to print, and requires the use of support structures, today I'm giving advice about the use of different support materials available and how well they tend to work.

Single extruder setup - 

First let's look at what a 3D print will look like if support material is enabled using a single extruder machine.


Support structure enabled - Support in Green, model in Yellow (top faces shown in red-orange)

Lets print that...


It printed just fine, but now you have to remove all that support material. 


For removal of PLA you will need - 
  • Cuticle Nippers (Top-Tip - they work great) - For MEN, or WOMEN - :)
  • Pointy thing (left hand side - very pointy)
  • tweeters, 
  • time, 
  • patience, 
  • cup of tea, 
  • soothing music, 
  • etc.
Have a guess how long the above support removal was, I'll tell you down below, after we look at the alternative method.

Dual extruder setup - 


I'm using Faberdashery PLA( above) and Polymaker Polysupport (Below)



Another reason for doing this intensive advent calendar every day, was to test out the Olsson Ruby nozzles. They are doing really well, so today they get a short break. 

I will be using the Faberdashery PLA and Polymaker Polysupport in the BCN3D SIGMA R17 3D Printer.

The SIGMA can't fit the Ruby nozzles :(


The 500g roll of Polymaker Polysupport material fits really well in the SIGMA R17


Here I am using the support material in a different way, it's an interface rather than full structure.

The above Gcode image shows the model car in blue (PLA on left extruder), with a blue support structure (also in left PLA).

The interface (Dense support material) between lower PLA support and the model is shown in green, and is using the right extruder fitted with Polymaker Polysupport.

Let's print that on the SIGMA R17 -

The main PLA material is used for both the model and 98% of the support structure, just the interface is in Polymaker Polysupport.

Printed great, no problems at all - Polysupport prints a lot like PLA (just slightly higher temperature).

Lets remove the green support material...

The only tools you need for Polysmooth support removal are 'pointy thing' and a toothbrush,

It comes off clean and easily. Just a quick brush and a poke here the there.


Support cleanup time compare - 

The Pink Jeep, using just PLA support (Single extruder) was 16 minutes and 23 seconds. I also used a flame to smooth off a few sharp edges. (+10 seconds)

The alternative Green Jeep, using Dual extruder 'IDEX' SIGMA PLA and Polysupport was exactly 1 minute and 18 seconds. That was including brushing time, I also did not need to use a flame for cleanup.

With big and complex print projects, a break-away support material saves you many hours of cleanup. The material basically pays for itself in time saved. You also only use a small amount of it, when using it as an interface layer as I have above.

The only reason you may want to use it for full support, would be if you were using an expensive material like Bronzefill, you would not want to waste Bronze material as supports.


Print advice - (Support materials)

I think I'm going to do a few more blog posts on different support materials and the best settings to use (in New Year 2018), it was not long enough today to really go into full details about all aspects of support structures and other materials available.

With that in mind below are my top-tips, advice and general experience of support materials.

There are other options for a dedicated support material.

PVA is often talked about as a soluble support material, designed for use in dual or multi-extruder systems. But it's usually a massive pain to use.



E3D spotted the pain that PVA was causing users and made a modified version called Scaffold (See below for more details)


PVA – I have tried around 10 different manufacturers and suppliers over the years. Still not impressed

General conclusion for PVA - I have wasted more time trying to print with ‘PVA’ than any other 3D printing material. It is possible, just not sensible or normally worth all the effort. It’s only fun/exciting and interesting the first time you try to use it. (I basically HATE it now).

Good aspects –

  • It is a support material…
  • Water soluble, good but also leads to many, many of the problems below.
Not so good – (my experiences with various printers and extrusion systems) - 


  • It’s very soft; filament deforms easily in extruders and does not pop-back into shape – it just tends to get squashed / squeezed - and then stops feeding/extruding.
  • It will ‘cook’ in the hot-end – don’t go over 190 Degrees C for any long period of time - (long, being more than ~15 minutes) – take it out of the hot-zone.
  • It’ll often stop working (extruding) half way into a print job.
  • It’s quite expensive.
  • Few people make it, and many wished they didn’t when customers complain.
  • It will take on moisture, and in some cases become destroyed / useless.
  • It does not tend to stick all that well to many 3D printer build surfaces
  • It does not stick well enough to many materials, so not great at building on top of a material like PLA/ABS.
  • You really need to use a lot of it – dense supports for it to usually be successful – cost / time / risk of print failure increased.
  • It can leave residue inside the hot-end, causing problems if not fully cleaned out.
  • Most 3D printers (extruders / hot-ends) are not setup / designed to use PVA.

E3D Scaffold – 

General conclusion for E3D Scaffold - It's so much better than PVA, but still not great in every machine or extruder setup. I can get it to work really well in my SIGMA that's fitted with Bondtech extruders and E3D V6 Hot-ends. It's just about perfect (apart from the general moisture problem).

Unfortunately in the standard BCN3D SIGMA R17, It will not work well enough, or for long enough to be of any use.

I really want to see a water soluble support material in general use, but until a formulation actually delivers ease of use in more 3D Printers, I'm going to find it hard to struggle on with PVA based materials.

Good aspects –

  • It is better and easier to use than a standard PVA.
  • Water soluble and also break-away easily.
  • Compatible with some materials PLA/PET, and tends to stick slightly better than most PVA only materials.
  • It’s grey, which actually makes it easier to see if it’s extruding well.
Not so good –


  • It’s still quite soft. In some extruder systems this will still be a problem.
  • Moisture will still damage this filament, keep it dry and out of sunlight.
  • It’s slightly less prone to ‘cooking’ but still use under 190 is possible and retract out of the hot-zone when not being extruded.
  • It’s about the same price as PVA, that’s good because it can actually work, unlike many PVA’s.
  • It seems less prone to leaving immovable residue inside the hot-end, but it will still require regular cleaning.
  •  Still causing problems if not fully cleaned out.

Polymaker Polysupport – 

General conclusion for Polysupport- It's so far the only support material that delivers on ease of use. For me it's the only dedicated support material worth using at this point (for my needs) It is not ruined by moisture, and that's a big bonus. It also works in the SIGMA extruder system. every other PVA material does not work as expected in SIGMA.

Good aspects –

  • It is a dedicated support material, and you can also print objects with it too.
  • It’s like using a normal PLA material. Quite easy in most systems.
  • Water soluble and also break-away easily.
  • Compatible with common materials PLA/PET/ABS, the bond is just strong enough to hold, but straightforward to remove from most materials.
  • It does not have a moisture problem, but keep it sealed when not in use.
  • It does not ‘cook’ in the hot-end, does not leave permanent residue.
Not so good –


  • It’s not water soluble, so you will still need to break-away, can’t be used in the same way a water soluble material could.
  • It’s quite expensive - but I also just demonstrated how it saves time and it ACTUALLY WORKS! - Bonus.

I'll go more into support materials, settings and techniques in a future blog post. But please ask questions and I'll make sure they are included next time.


Days 1 to 19 of the Advent Christmas Tree.

Day #19 is done.

Today's story is all about reminding people that not everything can or should be 3D printed, and the things that use support material structures can be a right pain, if you don't choose the correct materials.

Join me next time for Day #20 - getting close now...

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D

My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 

My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.

Saturday, 16 December 2017

Christmas Advent 3D Printing #Day 15 Advice using 3DFilaprint PLA and selecting material samples

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Day 15

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Last time - Day #14 Post (LEGO brick) was printed with a generic no-brand PLA and I discussed some of the factors to consider, when selecting no-brand 3D printing materials.

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's time for Day 15 and I was expecting maybe an elf shoe? mouse in a boot?, because the tree shape was of a 'boot' but...

Day 15 gift is designed by Thomas Torr -  It's a Christmas? severed foot! - Okay then... that's cool.



I was involved in an interesting chat over on Twitter about sample filaments a few days back. That got me thinking about the suppliers of 3D Printing materials that stock a lot of different manufacturers, and also some of them that are happy to sell samples of materials for testing before you invest in a full roll of material.

One such company that I use here in the UK is 3DFilaprint, they also run a filament sample company called globalFSD.

Suppliers like 3DFilaprint (and there are many others around the world - PrintedSolid in the US for example) are great because they tend to stock a very wide range of materials, from many different manufacturers. When you only want to place one order, for just one or two rolls of a type/make/material it can be the perfect way to get everything you want in one go.

Back to the severed foot...

Because I'm British, and of an age when Monty Python was the best thing on television, I just take one look at the severed foot, and think of the iconic TV show, cult films (it's just a flesh wound / beware of the rabbit / bag of otters noses / dead parrot) Magic!


So for that reason I found some pink PLA filament from 3DFilaprint (Manufactured by RepRapper Tech). to print out the 'Severed foot' (Monty Python Foot).

This is the right way for suppliers to sell - partnerships and by listing the actual manufacturer.

Support material enabled for this one.

This was one that needed support material, rather than trying to cut up the model, I just enabled basic supports and printed it out in Pink PLA.

Excuse the 'green wart' on the heal of the foot, this was a blob from the previous green print.

The supports are simple to remove, just ease them off with needle-nose pliers.

A quick flame, and the support marks vanish.

You will usually get some bruise marks, but as I have shown before, just use a lighter flame over them (quickly) and they will vanish.


You should end up with a very nice print. (This was only 0.2mm layers, quick print and good finish).


Print advice - (sample filaments)

Here are few tips for using samples of filament - 

Should you buy samples? - Yes, samples can not always be given out for free by manufacturers, so it's a good idea to buy them if you can find any - one big problem is that samples are not usually made, manufacturers often prefer you to just buy a full roll. Samples allow you to test out the material on your machine, and play with some settings before you buy a full roll.

How much do you need as a sample? - This is a good discussion point, but in general I always want 20m of a filament material as a sample if I am going to invest time and effort in making a profile and perform a few small print tests.

I have been handed coils of ~5m lengths at shows, I tend to give them back. I have also been sent 6 inch 'samples' they are totally useless.

Should samples be loose, or on a small roll? - I actually prefer all sample filaments to be loose coils. And that's mostly how they usually come.

I do have a few 250g rolls of filament, that's fine, but if the reel is a silly size and I have no way to mount it, it tends to sit on a shelf rather than being tested.

Ideally they should be vacuum packed. I generally get loose / bagged samples, but some manufacturers (Polymaker, Proto-Pasta and Rigid Ink for example) supply samples in vacuum sealed bags with desiccant.
3DFilaprint sample

Polymaker mini 250g spool (with a true 50mm spool mount, great job)

Proto-Pasta vacuum packed sample :)

Rigid.ink Samples - also vacuum packed

Also look out fro samples that have a reasonable diameter. I try to get coils with a minimum 120mm diameter. Tighter coils often seem to cause all sorts of problems when testing a loose coil.

One of my all time favourite sample packs is still  the Faberdashery 10 x 10m colour packs - very large and easy to use coils, perfect for injecting a little colour - Like I did for the Day 4 lollipop!


ColorFabb also do great samples when you want to experiment.

How much should you pay - That probably depends on you. How much time it will save you? Do you want to try out something new? Do you already know what settings to use? Will you / would you probably buy a roll anyway?

I often buy 2 or three of the same sample, just to have a spare in case you need to use that material in the future.

Why don't more manufacturers make sample packs / multi-packs etc. - It takes a lot of effort and does not seem to be a thing manufacturers really want to do. - I hope that changes in the future.

Make sure you tell 3D Printing filament manufacturers that you want samples (20m+) and that it's worth paying for them. Maybe then if we all let them know, it'll start to happen more often.

More multi-colour / multi-material selection packs, are also something I'm sure more people would buy. It can cost hundreds of $£e to get every colour of a filament range, but a sample multi-pack could be the cost of one single reel.

There must be a market for sample packs / monthly boxes etc? - Yes, some suppliers offer a sample service, like GlobalFSD, supply samples of many types. Ridig.Ink offer a sample filament club (for £10 per month) and you may want to check out Makerbox, but I have not yet used their service.

And now for something completely different (Python)...

Sorry now for an update on Day 11 -rusting of the Potjie (cooking pot)

Superglue together before rusting (see below).

After rusting - looks like it's 100 years old.


Ready to cook up a warm winter stew.

It was dipped in vinegar, sale and oxi-action solution, damp paper towel in a glass ramekin.

Leave to rust for a few days.

Day #15 is completed. I now have my very own severed foot :) 

The story of the severed foot... yea, that's going to be an odd one to explain on a Christmas tree, but it's totally Python like and an interesting talking point... I'm off to join the Judean People's Front. Or is it the People's Front of Judea?

Join me next time for Day #16 - When I finally get to use some flexible filaments :)

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D

My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 

My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.

Tuesday, 5 December 2017

Christmas Advent 3D Printing 2017 Day #4 Faberdashery Translucent PLA's

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Day 4.

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's Day #4 of the calendar, and today the gift is designed by Tom Van den Bon - It's a Christmas Lollipop. (I tweaked the design a little for this, read below to find out why) -


What material to print a lollipop?

The choice of filament is obvious for me. It must be multiple translucent colours for this great gift.

Some of the Faberdashery Translucent range of PLA filaments.

Faberdashery have some of the most mouth-watering translucent filaments available anywhere. They basically make printed objects look like ultra-perfect, coloured boiled sweets. Yummy – don’t eat the filament…

I printed the vase (above) back in 2014 with Faberdashery and other translucent colours, they can look really amazing.

I have already told you that Green is my favourite colour. Translucent plastic is my favourite type of 3D Printing filament.

When I look at any manufacturer’s range of filaments, I check if they have a number of translucent (not milky) colours available, this is because translucent filaments are reported to be quite tricky to manufacture. Almost every filament manufacturer (the real manufacturers, not just suppliers/re-sellers) I have talked to over the years says that a good translucent, coloured filament is quite difficult to produce consistently without flecks, bubbles etc. I see it as a strong indicator of quality control, if good quality translucent filaments are available.

Other translucent materials? - 

It’s quite common for PET/T/G materials to come in translucent colours (think of the many coloured plastic water/drinks bottles), but it is not quite so common for PLA to come as translucent. The very first PLA’s I ever used (made in China) were almost all translucent, not opaque at all.

For a frosted/translucent finish, you can use acrylic (PMMA) but that’s considerable more tricky to use. I’ll try to find a day/model to demonstrate out using PMMA at some point during this December advent training series.

The Faberdashery crystal colour pack is a great starting point to make sure you have a little of every colour to hand. It's goes a long way when you use it like I am doing here.

I'm using all Faberdashery colours in this model, for the stick and back I'll use Pearly White. 

Pearly White.

For the many swirls I'm using - Sour Cherry, Orange Fizz, Lemon Drop, Jade Green, Glacial Blue and Aurora.

This lollipop should look good in multiple colours and the design allows you to change colours during the print, for the stick, base and many lollipop swirls.

During model preparation I noticed the STL file had some errors. In the course of fixing those errors I decided to modify the model to have more stepped layers that could be coloured in a rainbow set of translucent colours. 

My version of the Lollipop design uses multiple stepped layers, so more colours can be used.


Printing advice -


I'm using the Prusa ColorPrint program (above) for this one as it will stop at set heights, move the nozzle to the front and ensures you don’t miss any of the critical colour change point.
It's really easy to use, just slice in the Prusa version of Slic3r, upload the Gcode output to the colorprint website and define when the program should pause and change the colour.

To work out what layer heights you need for each step you can load the STL model into a program like Netfabb. See below.


In the above image I have used the Cut Z slider to move the blue lint to where I cant my first colour change. Just make a note of the Z height (here it's 3.2mm) enter that into the ColorPrint webpage as seen above in the previous image.

Do the same thing again for each layer height you want a colour change. (5.2mm above).

ColorPrint also now allows you to use Gcode that has Z-hop (lift) enabled, it's smart enough to ignore all the extra z-hop moves and select real change of print layers.

You don't have to use the ColorPrint program, all it does is adds an M600 Gcode command at the change of layer heights you selected.

You can just look at any Gcode in a text editor (Textpad is great) - then do a search for G1 Z3.200 - this will just you to the Z height at 3.2mm. Just make sure you are selecting the change of layer and not the Z-hop of a travel move. You can ensure this by finding the last reference to the height you want before it changes to a higher constant.

For example, below in Green is an inserted M600 command at the Z3.2mm height.

M204 S1000
G1 X122.752 Y116.452 F7800.000
G1 F6240
G1 X122.135 Y115.491 E-0.43439
G1 F6240
G1 X121.956 Y114.657 E-0.27247
G1 F6240
G1 X121.927 Y114.494 E-0.05313
G1 E-0.04000 F2100.00000
G1 Z3.350 F7800.000
G1 X134.891 Y92.234 F7800.000
G1 Z3.200 F7800.000
M600
G1 E0.80000 F2100.00000
M204 S2000
G1 F2585.558
G1 X123.758 Y103.367 E0.53295
G1 X123.502 Y103.998 E0.02301
G1 X123.238 Y104.768 E0.02757
G1 X123.002 Y105.558 E0.02792
G1 X122.800 Y106.356 E0.02785
G1 X122.595 Y107.409 E0.03632
G1 X138.605 Y91.399 E0.76639
G1 X139.365 Y91.285 E0.02602
G1 X140.588 Y91.159 E0.04162
G1 X141.770 Y91.113 E0.04003

This will make the printer move to the front and push out the filament, wait for to load another one, feed and then start printing again after you press the button (as long as your 3D Printer firmware supports M600 commands).

First colour change from Pearly white to Sour Cherry.

Sour Cherry done, nest is Orange Fizz - just continue until it's finished.

From the side you can see the colour changes, but from the top it's a multi-coloured Lollipop!

The Tree is looking really nice.


What settings did you use? - Faberdashery PLA is really easy to use. I use 194 Degrees C for Translucents. 

Print speed - it's good from 10-150mm/sec. Works fine in Direct drive or Bowden extruders.

Why use it? - PLA is an eco-friendly Bio-plastic. It's UV stable and works very well as a 3D printing material. Originally developed by Natureworks as a bio-plastic made from corn starch. many different grades exist. It can also be made of potato starch. 

It has a low glass transition temperature (~50 Degrees C) provides no warp in most situations. You don't need a heated bed, but it can assist when printing big (+150mm wide) objects.

Don't print in very low temperatures (below 15 Degrees C).

You can easily re-form post printed 3D objects with a hairdryer or heatgun, handy when you need to bend a tentacle or whatever.

Is it strong? - Yes, PLA has good strength, but can be a little brittle in it's raw form. Most manufacturers add impact modifiers to make the plastic more impact resistant. As with a lot of materials colour is added at around 2-5% volume, you can get both translucent and opaque PLA's from a wide range of manufacturers.


Is it easy to use/print - Yes. It can be quite runny (like honey) if you put the temperature up too high (~218+) I would recomend sticking to around 190 for normal printing speeds ~40mm/sec and if you do go fast ~120+mm/sec then consider putting the temperature over 210. My max temperature for PLA is 218. After this point it will start to rapidly degrade inside the nozzle. PLA will leave residue over time and it can be one of the most tricky to remove. The best method is with an Nylon Atomic Pull (Google it).

Do you have to dry it before/after use? - No. PLA is one of the few materials that can sit around at normal ambient temperatures, and not have a significant effect on printing capability. That said, keep it sealed, dry and away from strong light for maximum shelf life. Some people report that PLA becomes brittle over time, I have had every problem you could imagine with many materials, including a roll of PLA shatter over one summer. But it's very unusual.

Do i need a 'special' nozzle? - No, it's not abrasive, I have used it with all aidderent sizes of nozzle from 0.25 to 1.6mm - It will work fine with Stainless, Hardened steel, Copper, Ruby or Brass nozzles.


Does it smell when printing? - Yes. Usually just a slightly slight sweet smell, like popcorn. Unless it has a lot of additives, then it may smell more.

Does it come on a eco friendly spool? - No, But it comes on No spool! - Faberdashery coils filament in ~400mm diameter rings, they have a low bend radius and feed really well into 3D printer extruders. They have minimal extra packaging so you pay for the material not spools, cardboard and heavy delivery. Top marks for being enviromentally friendly. You just need to be careful in use so the coils do not tangle. I hang them over a big 400mm wide spool in use.

Conclusion for Faberdashery PLA  - It's very good material with the highest quality production you are likely to see. Some people really don't like the lack of a spool, but that can be managed if you are careful.


Day #4 Is Completed. Again it turned out exactly as I wanted, a Rainbow lollipop of multiple colours printed on a single extruder machine using ColorPrint M600 Gcode commands. Easy, and good fun.

The story for this one is all about how to design and print multi-colour objects with a 'normal' single extruder 3D Printer.

Join me next time for Day #5

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D



My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 


My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.