tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post8039262713681952482..comments2023-09-20T15:32:40.483+01:00Comments on Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing: Slic3r is Nicer - Part 2 - filament and printingRichRap3Dhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09348596756294999378noreply@blogger.comBlogger29125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-67522584821756979522013-10-11T22:47:40.948+01:002013-10-11T22:47:40.948+01:00I think I am missing something regarding joining G...I think I am missing something regarding joining GCODE at specific Z values.<br /><br />I have an object that needs support on the first few layers, and no support after that. The object was sliced at the same layer height, but it did not come out to the same number of layers (assumedly due to Slic3r adding stuff like some rafting). By using Repetier's GCODE preview I can identify the layers in each version that represent the point of transition between where I want support and no support. The problem is that the first few layers with support need to switch over at a Z of 2.31, and the corresponding spot on the non-support version is a Z of 1.89... a NEGATIVE value! Won't that drive the head into my model?<br /><br />Slic3r emphatically tries to dissuade me from using relative coordinates for my firmware, but that would appear like the only way one could fix this without renumbering EVERY layer from the second, non-support, lower starting point version.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-88000424707815704162013-06-03T10:33:58.719+01:002013-06-03T10:33:58.719+01:00Thanks for sharing this post I also share with yo...Thanks for sharing this post I also share with you some tip hope you like. The low rated printed custom stickers can be used at more favorable surfaces just to combine them with cheap promotional and lucrative deals. So the vinyl bumper stickers remain on the figure tips for the dealing purpose. Enjoy special sale discount offer for the winter end and enhance your product or brand publicity as cheap printed stickers are very easy and expedient way to publicize the product among customers. Print stickers just to place them on your obligated product and let your product enhance your brand market. This can be done by using all type of printing items. <br /><br /><a href="http://www.thespeedyprint.com/stickers-printing-c-291.html" rel="nofollow">cheap sticker printing</a>Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05963891685712913510noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-28049426079333224502013-05-28T18:53:26.315+01:002013-05-28T18:53:26.315+01:00Through the cavity the friction and pressure can s...Through the cavity the friction and pressure can sometimes be so great there is no need for the heaters. Plastic Manufacturing Companies shut off the heaters and allow the friction and pressure to keep the plastic at the desired temperature. That's pretty interesting friction and pressure can keep plastic at that high of a temperature.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.polybase.se/" rel="nofollow"><b>Plastprofiler</b></a>Polybasehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05536034540031337085noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-63269196889624618842013-05-04T17:12:46.019+01:002013-05-04T17:12:46.019+01:00Hello,
Thank you for all this invaluable informat...Hello,<br /><br />Thank you for all this invaluable information, <br /><br />@+ FXL<br />http://www.youtube.com/user/FXL126?gl=FR<br />thaisnohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04832745395486122099noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-34767439362388969062013-04-14T11:42:53.081+01:002013-04-14T11:42:53.081+01:00Hi Rich, thanks for your excellent tutorial. I hav...Hi Rich, thanks for your excellent tutorial. I have just finished build of modified Prism with my version of Stepstruder Mk7. It took me 14 months. So I am very excited now. After calibration I started printing in ABS on heated bed and I am thrilled. I had a long day yesterday and finished with printing the little stone house, came out really well, except for the last 3mm of the undulating roof line, that came out straight level and is messed up. I used the slic3r v 0.9.9. I have read somewhere that the v 099 is not quite there yet, wold it be sensible to use previous version, if so which one is recommended?<br />I am very pleased with the quality, and I would like still to improve on it. <br />I am a newbie on this blog. Is there somewhere I can post pictures for others to comment how to improve it?<br />thanks<br />otto<br />otashttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03950237106938775130noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-33022808973388409802013-02-22T07:34:24.663+00:002013-02-22T07:34:24.663+00:00My prusa is a SAE-hybrid -- it uses metric for all...My prusa is a SAE-hybrid -- it uses metric for all of the smaller screws, and for part placement, but 5/16 smooth and threaded rod. As a result of using 5/16-18 threaded rod for the Z-axis.<a href="http://www.smsengineering.net/" rel="nofollow"> dg spare part</a>Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13327730061654064097noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-84874570259363763172013-02-08T06:52:53.761+00:002013-02-08T06:52:53.761+00:00custom printing companies are offering various typ...custom printing companies are offering various types of stickers for the event. The most popular ones include window decals which are to be placed on glass windows and doors. These stickers can be printed in regular as well as die cut shapes according to your design pattern and requirements.<br /><br /><a href="www.northport-printing.com" rel="nofollow">Commercial Label Printing</a>Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-55198040561501671162013-02-02T00:41:34.822+00:002013-02-02T00:41:34.822+00:00I have a big problem with my First layer. The Prin...I have a big problem with my First layer. The Print head is always slush over my first layer infill. Please help me? It's so emberassing. I've been try to calibrate the printer almost 2 mounths but it doesn't work. Which Are the best settings. What is the best distance between the print head and the table??<br /><br />Bazsi ( HUN )...::B4zs!::...https://www.blogger.com/profile/10203691782203736904noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-1488806211685906322012-12-27T21:57:52.610+00:002012-12-27T21:57:52.610+00:00It took a while, but now I'm printing again.
...It took a while, but now I'm printing again.<br /><br />The whole problem was my hotend, the plastic wasn't pushed out quick enough. It was a very bad hotend.<br />When you extrude in air you should see the plastic coming out very quick in a thin string.<br /><br />Problem solved!<br /><br />Arnohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12386134821202781273noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-30725352608748228982012-06-08T05:14:57.134+01:002012-06-08T05:14:57.134+01:00Hi,
I've been using Slic3r and noticed that th...Hi,<br />I've been using Slic3r and noticed that the outer shell always separate from the infill.Ac well as additional perimeters are far from each other. Have you had this problem? I tried changing all settings without success.<br />Thanks<br />EduardoEhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06133926055378678773noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-20023294580544786652012-04-07T19:01:33.165+01:002012-04-07T19:01:33.165+01:00Hi Rich,
I don't suppose you have any of thes...Hi Rich,<br /><br />I don't suppose you have any of these 140mm x 140mm glass trivets going spare that I could buy off you do you? I've looked around down south, no luck what so ever and those companies don't sell the trivets online!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05562535830913112966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-44859123338450001282012-03-21T18:09:21.574+00:002012-03-21T18:09:21.574+00:00For your sprinter configuration of accelleration a...For your sprinter configuration of accelleration and start speeds what are good/optimal values to get quiet machine? With original settings that I commented out, my machine was wining and really jerky. These improved my noise and made movements a lot better but still not perfect:<br /><br />// X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />float max_start_speed_units_per_second[] = {1000.0, 1000.0, 0.2,10.0}; //{25.0,25.0,0.2,10.0};<br />long max_acceleration_units_per_sq_second[] = {6000,6000,250,10000}; //{1000,1000,50,10000}; X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves or retracts<br />long max_travel_acceleration_units_per_sq_second[] = {6000,6000,250,10000}; //{500,500,50,500}; X, Y, Z max acceleration in mm/s^2 for travel moves<br /><br />Thanks for this tutorial I was able to print my first objects with slic3r and like it a lot more than skeinforge.<br /><br />Kind regards,<br />WalterWalter Schreppershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13696489909089327273noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-88330836252362896972012-03-21T17:54:41.482+00:002012-03-21T17:54:41.482+00:00Hi Greg,
Sorry I was sure I did a reply to you on...Hi Greg,<br /><br />Sorry I was sure I did a reply to you on this, I have been asked it quite a few times now - <br />They must be harder to get hold of them than I first thought! <br /><br />I have always found then in the 'Home Bargains' shops up and down the country, we have four in a 10 mile radius of me. <br />They always have the 200x200 ones in stock every time I have ever looked over the last year or so. They also now stock a nice 140 x 140mm (perfect for Huxley machines) and much bigger ones. <br /><br />I'm not sure if you can buy them from their online website? - [www.homebargains.co.uk] <br /><br />I have also found a slightly different version in the north of the country in the 'BM Bargains' shops, I don't tend to see these shops down south, but lots of homebargains shops everywhere. <br /><br />They also do round ones now, that fit nicely on a Prusa heated bed.<br /><br />And also think about using Mirror-glass - check out my MendelMax post.<br /><br />Good luck, and if you get really stuck, I have about 10 or so spare.RichRap3Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09348596756294999378noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-51020486698015969042012-03-14T15:52:14.461+00:002012-03-14T15:52:14.461+00:00Hi Rich, great blog :-) Where specifically did you...Hi Rich, great blog :-) Where specifically did you get your glass trivets from? A quick google search hasn't turned up anything similar (neither has searching ebay, Tesco or Homebase's websites) . GregGreg Colbournhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07218950449039783258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-13376409977627520942012-03-13T20:49:13.718+00:002012-03-13T20:49:13.718+00:00Hello - That Amazing gold Filament is from Faberda...Hello - That Amazing gold Filament is from Faberdashery - Bling Bling Gold - Priceless.<br />http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/<br /><br />I love it!RichRap3Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09348596756294999378noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-67990434359216781112012-03-08T21:52:02.548+00:002012-03-08T21:52:02.548+00:00Great tutorial Rich, thank you. And I have to ask,...Great tutorial Rich, thank you. And I have to ask, where can I get that cool bronze colored filament? I have the perfect application for it.<br /><br />cheers,<br />McihaelSublimeLayershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-28792865157766305122012-02-20T08:14:16.696+00:002012-02-20T08:14:16.696+00:00Thanks so much for this article. Does anyone know...Thanks so much for this article. Does anyone know where to buy the glass tempered sheets in the US that is the right size? I look on amazon and I only see crazy stuff like this :http://www.amazon.com/Cypress-Witchful-Thinking-8-Inch-Cutting/dp/B0042RU336/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329691141&sr=8-1<br /><br />The closest I can find is going with 8x8" borosilicate glass from mcmaster, but it is $24.Coherenthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08710195881011275120noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-55415952105186763422012-01-22T18:29:16.695+00:002012-01-22T18:29:16.695+00:00Hi Dave, That's a good point for anyone withou...Hi Dave, That's a good point for anyone without a metric machine.<br />I have just switched over to M6 for the Z on one machine to allow finer resolution, looking good so far.<br /><br />Cheers,<br /><br />Rich.RichRap3Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09348596756294999378noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-34248045565044398332012-01-20T20:42:37.808+00:002012-01-20T20:42:37.808+00:00Another note on Z-lift:
My prusa is a SAE-hybrid ...Another note on Z-lift:<br /><br />My prusa is a SAE-hybrid -- it uses metric for all of the smaller screws, and for part placement, but 5/16 smooth and threaded rod. As a result of using 5/16-18 threaded rod for the Z-axis, there is no way to have an integer multiple z-lift movement. This means that there is a small positioning error every time the g-code moves the z-axis.<br /><br />For a print without z-lift, this isn't much of a problem -- it just means the layers are a very tiny bit thinner than they should be.<br /><br />With z-lift turned on, there are many many more z-movements, both up and down. Every time the print head is moved, those tiny errors accumulate. With a layer thickness of 0.2mm and a z-lift of 0.3mm, I was getting wonderful print quality, but after just 10 layers, the z-position was off by more than a full layer, resulting in the print head attempting to plow through already deposited plastic.<br /><br />I just ordered M8 threaded stainless rod from McMaster-Carr -- until that arrives, I'm running with z-lift disabled. I'll check back in once I've installed the metric rod and recalibrated to report on how this turns out.<br /><br />-DaveDavid Carleyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16919676645376203886noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-90624155512457529702012-01-16T19:16:34.976+00:002012-01-16T19:16:34.976+00:00Hi Chris, Thanks, I'm finding 'lift' h...Hi Chris, Thanks, I'm finding 'lift' helps on lots of different prints, anything you need a real smooth and clean surface on especially sculptures.RichRap3Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09348596756294999378noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-68246961497317016562012-01-16T08:40:18.014+00:002012-01-16T08:40:18.014+00:00Rich--keep it up. your entries always set the sta...Rich--keep it up. your entries always set the status quo for what we in the herd aspire to print to. This was a great post! i will have to give lift a try on high aspect ratio parts. thx for the info!Chrishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11960401039485453032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-48746608091208814492012-01-15T20:44:58.169+00:002012-01-15T20:44:58.169+00:00sorry, One thing I didn't state was the bed te...sorry, One thing I didn't state was the bed temperature on Glass - 60 degrees C is a very good starting point, I only go lower if things fail to stick, have not needed to go any higher at all.RichRap3Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09348596756294999378noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-8067013478872988082012-01-15T20:38:23.733+00:002012-01-15T20:38:23.733+00:00I can't get the PLA to stick to the glass. At ...I can't get the PLA to stick to the glass. At how many degrees you have the hpb?<br /><br />When I set it to 50C, it doesn't stick enough, the printhead pulls the extracted PLA off the glass. <br />When I set it to 100C, it sticks very good, but the PLA is to hot to print on..<br />It sticks to the glass when it is about 100C. <br /><br />I have glued the temp-sensor on the printbed.Arnohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12386134821202781273noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-76378852080030929432012-01-15T16:16:29.855+00:002012-01-15T16:16:29.855+00:00I can't recommend glass enough for PLA. I have...I can't recommend glass enough for PLA. I have been using it now and have prints that, as Rich says, pop off once cooled and don't have the "kapton ridges" effect (my term for the lines you have on the bottom of prints that are printed on kapton tape ;))<br /><br />As long as the glass is clean they adhere really really well. Seriously, wait until it is cool!!<br /><br />Been playing a little with the lower slice heights, look forward to your thoughts on that Rich :)smartroadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05885994804477270815noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8639215628525378898.post-56220803086489636212012-01-13T10:28:28.674+00:002012-01-13T10:28:28.674+00:00Hi Hans, I will check but I don't think I have...Hi Hans, I will check but I don't think I have had that problem, my end-stops are micro-switches with long levers, so I need about 2 layers before they lift and de-activate, it could be the way your firmware is setup to check end-stops?. I had some minor issues with end-stops when using Sprinter but with Marlin I have not observed any problems for me like you describe.<br /><br />I did have one very odd problem the other day that I think could be a Slic3r or Firmware bug, but I have not yet confirmed that, when printing a very small complex ring, it did the skirt and then just stepped up a layer at a time on Z with a slight pause between layers, not printing anything or moving X or Y, very odd, and I don't think it was the STL as I have printed it before without the 'lift' option set. Still investigating that one.<br /><br />Rich.RichRap3Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09348596756294999378noreply@blogger.com